Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2020 just finished with a bang with the Ganni show taking place on Jan. 30th. And while Ganni was a highlight for obvious reasons (so many outfit ideas, so little time), one of the best things about Copenhagen Fashion Week is the incredible selection of emerging designers.
If you like discovering new talent in the world of fashion, this is one of the top off-the-beaten path fashion weeks to attend. In fact, there are already a host of emerging brands coming out of Copenhagen Fashion Week that have become well-known in the U.S. through Instagram and retailers like Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi. You may already be familiar with the luscious coats of Stand Studio, or the charming metallic mini dresses from Rotate Birger Christensen. But attending Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time during the fall 2020 edition, I was most interested in discovering the more niche brands; the ones I’d never heard of.
Even better, the Copenhagen Fashion Week fall 2020 edition was one of the most sustainable yet — with nearly every designer on the official schedule offering up new solutions that were environmentally friendly and cutting edge when it came to style. Copenhagen Fashion Week’s fall 2020 emerging designers took guests on a tour of the city — from the most far flung warehouses and museums to the beautiful French embassy in Copenhagen. The exciting thing about these designers too, is that many of them hail from a variety of different places around Scandinavia, meaning there’s a huge range of inspiring cultural references behind the designs. Here, read on for the best emerging designers to watch from Copenhagen Fashion Week fall 2020.
Helmstedt
Helmstedt is a relative newcomer. Founded by Emilie Helmstedt, she launched her label in 2017 and had her very first show at Copenhagen Fashion Week just one year ago. She creates pieces that are extremely colorful — always with hand-painted prints such as cute strawberries, tiny grapes or even clouds. For her fall 2020 collection, she took inspiration from Parisian craftsmanship and memories. She created large sculptures of tea cups and pies inside Copenhagen’s French embassy and showed long printed dresses and matching pants and tops covered in quirky accessories such as belts made out of forks. “It’s kind of an intuitive process where the mind follows the motions of the hand,” she said, of this season’s prints. “I think maxi dresses are the signature look in Copenhagen. I think you can see a lot of Copenhagen girls wearing them right now, and in lots of bright colors too.”
Gestuz
Founded in 2008 by Sanne Sehested, Gestuz is one of those brands that redefines everyday, wearable essentials. Think: the oversized trench coat, the colorful leather skirts and matching shirt dresses; all staples of the stylish modern woman’s wardrobe. In addition to this, at the fall 2020 presentation, Gestuz proved a unique sense of attention to footwear and accessories. In particular, the knee-high boots were standouts.
Rave Review
Rave Review, too, is another young brand that is defining the new bold Copenhagen aesthetic. Founded by the Swedish designers Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück, the duo first showed their spring 2018 collection in Paris. For fall 2020, they showed in Copenhagen for the first time, which made sense for their collection of boldly printed collection made of 100% upcycled fabrics. “We wanted to explore old duvet covers and from the 70s,” said Bergqvist. “We upcycle everything and we found a lot of great vintage things in Sweden.” It’s clear that outerwear is their strong suit and we wouldn’t be surprised if the brand soon became a cult favorite for its colorful coats, which have a crafty yet slightly punkish vibe.
Soulland
Soulland has actually been around for nearly two decades in Denmark. It was founded in Copenhagen in 2002. But still, I had never heard of the brand before visiting Copenhagen, and it’s clearly still an emerging label in the U.S. market, with extremely limited retailers. Silas Adler, Creative Director and Jacob Kampp Berliner, CEO lead the brand’s aesthetic which is a mix between hypebeast-y streetwear and contemporary art inspired pieces. Soulland’s fall 2020 collection, which was co-ed, was inspired by public transportation and had some unexpected quirks like graphic sweaters and a brilliant collaboration with the world famous comic Peanuts by Charles M. Schulz. Women’s tops and dresses contained the comic strip prints and you almost had to look twice to realize that it was really Snoopy on pieces that still retained their sense of streetwear cool.
Selam Fessahaye
Trust me when I say there’s something really special about Selam Fessahaye. Of all the collections of Copenhagen Fashion Week fall 2020, Fessahaye’s was one of the most directional and editorial. Fessahaye is a Swedish-Eritrean costume designer who launched her first ready-to-wear collection in August 2018 and she has since garnered the attention of many of the Scandinavian countries. For her fall 2020 collection, she showed her pieces on models that were all almost entirely people of color — something truly groundbreaking for Copenhagen Fashion Week, where diversity still has a long way to go. Her fall 2020 collection was a celebration of all things oversized and in-depth prints, in every sense. Most compelling were the short boxy jackets that had a silhouette that felt new and refreshing, as well as the jackets with supersized long sleeves.
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