This is our unfiltered mini review of Rick Owens Spring 2021. Read more about the Spring 2021 season of Paris Fashion Week here and here.
On day 4 of Paris Fashion Week, Rick Owens presented one of the most standout collections of the season yet. The theme of Rick Owens Spring 2021 show was Phlegethon, a bloody river from Greek mythology (think: Dante’s Inferno).
Immediately, the thigh-high shield-like boots and scarlet, brick accents demanded attention and stood as a visual representation of Owens’ theme. Aside from that, a selection of square-shouldered, armor-like pieces floated down the runway with the designer’s signature vision in mind. Half dark angels, half warriors, often barely resembling the linear shapes and silhouettes of an ‘outfit’ as we know it.
Layering was not just a part of the collection, it was almost as if the very concept was at the center of it all. The tops of radically-high boots disappeared behind the hemlines of open-cut, tailored tops that expertly opened to reveal a textural wonderland of bits of diaphanous fabrics, or what seemed to be crumbled ends of sequined fabric, as if someone had casually tied a hoodie around the waist, the mass of fabric revealing itself in different forms before becoming something else entirely.
In a world in which we’re facing a global pandemic and excessive political turmoil, these are clothes have their own identity, and a strong one at that. They are unconcerned about being comfortable; staying home, but they still speak volumes about everyday personas and the idea of having a vision and standing up and speaking out. Take, for example, the fact that every single model wore a mask on the runway and it actually looked not only sophisticated, but played into the larger, overall aesthetic.
Why is it, we can only count on one hand the number of designers who have incorporated masks into their recent collections (especially higher-end labels) given our current global situation? Says Owens of the decision, “A mask kind of works with my clothes, but it’s also a vote. It’s also promoting consideration of others. You might not believe in a mask, but it sends the right message.”
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