When it comes to the modern Schiaparelli brand, the jewelry is completely unparalleled. Designed by Daniel Roseberry, it touches on surrealism, humor, elegance and wit. Glasses rendered in sculpted brass, golden earrings shaped like the actual ear, gleaming eyeballs and pearl teeth with crystal cavities – what more could you ask for?
Of course, when Roseberry was designing the Schiaparelli jewelry collections for Haute Couture Spring 2020 and Ready-to-Wear Fall 2020, he deliberately looked to the stunning motifs that the original founder of the house, Elsa Schiaparelli, once used.
Roseberry took iconography designed nearly 100 years ago by Cocteau and the Alberto Giacometti and turned it on its head, presenting a brand new vision for our modern world. The eye motif, for example, was created by Cocteau in 1937.
In 2019, Schiaparelli named Daniel Roseberry as its new artistic director. The US designer replaced Bertrand Guyon who announced his departure in April. Since then, Nicole Kidman, Celine Dion, Cate Blanchett, Emilia Clark, Beyonce and Michelle Obama are just a few of the women who have worn Schiaparelli in 2020.
With a natural penchant for all things slightly surreal and whimsical, it makes sense that Roseberry joined the storied Schiaparelli from Thom Browne, where he worked for the past 11 years, the latter five as design director of both womenswear and menswear. Born in Texas, he studied at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology before starting his career at Thom Browne. It’s interesting to note it’s the first time there’s been an American designer leading Schiaparelli, and the amount of celebrities who are wholeheartedly embracing the brand so far.
Back to the jewelry, of which in my mind has become the most spectacular emblem of the Daniel Roseberry Schiaparelli era. While the designer’s embellished black and rainbow parachute style gowns are gorgeous, it’s the jewelry that stands out most to us. It is at once modern, curious, luxurious and regal.
Roseberry apparently started with the jewelry for his haute couture collection, and designed all the clothing and accessories around it. “In this collection, jewelry is disobedient: It affixes itself to forearms, to chests, to navels, to clavicles, to eyelashes, displacing space and volume. It’s a reminder that every part,” Roseberry wrote in the HC SS 2020 show notes. “Here, jewelry is not an accessory or an appendage, but an organ, as essential and vivid as a heart or a lung.”
Below, take a look at our favorite Schiaparelli jewelry for FW 2020 and HC SS 2020.
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