Simone Rocha Fall 2024
We’re delving deeper into the Poor Things-ification of fashion. Can you feel it? At Simone Rocha’s fall 2024 show we saw it all. Big puff sleeves. Tightly-laced corsets. Sheer little nothings that recall lingerie and bed clothing of the past. It makes total sense. For Simone Rocha’s couture debut under the Jean Paul Gaultier label just last month, she expressed the fact that she had been looking to historical clothing for interest and inspiration.
In this case, Rocha took influence from the mourning clothing of Queen Victoria, what with all their introspective delicacies and detailed boning. She mashed up it up with her utterly girlish and unapologetic take on unabashed femininity. Think: structured translucent little blazers and bloomers lined with shining crystals; shoulders covered in chubby pieces of fur.
Tailored jackets came studded with gems on the bust and sporty windbreakers were shaped with corsets. Sheer skirts were covered in little whimsical examples of that signature Rocha beading, the Crocs shoes embedded with her beloved pearls. Rocha is a girl’s girl when it comes to her aesthetic, never compromising superior volumes and excessive embellishment. Draped furry dresses were tied in bows at the shoulder. A full-length sheer cape, its bottom lined with a strip of plush fur and styled over top a crystal bedecked leotard? This is clothing firmly from the female point of view. And it always has been when it comes to Rocha’s approach.
Instead of the usual pearl-dripped bags we typically see, this collection saw the introduction of leather bags with top handles and crossbody straps and the stuffed dog bags, reportedly inspired by the Church Grim, a spirit in folklore that oversees and protects. Its striking image also seemed to appear in black fluff on a sheer pale dress.
Some newness to note: one particular pinstripe suit with patches of black fur. The armor-like pink silk brocade jacket with laces cascading from under the arm to the hem. A sheer long-sleeve black dress with grommet details.
But back to the topic of the Victorians serving an inspiration in 2024: how interesting that the Victorians were some of history’s finest maximalists who loved embellishment. They wore a lot of black, as seen in this collection. The Victorians also lived during a time of rapid invention and industrialization, as new machines took away old jobs, much like what we all are currently fearing will happen with A.I..
Harris Reed also looked the the Victorian age for his fall 2024 collection. Just call 2024 the new age of Victoriana.
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