A few months may have passed since the Fall 2020 shows were presented. I’ve since been reflecting on some of the top collections, and Y/Project Fall 2020 is definitely one of them.
Since Glenn Martens was appointed Creative Director of Y/Project in 2013, the label has been solidified as one of the top emerging talents to watch at Paris Fashion Week. Known for a playful sense of mixing up proportions and reappropriating classic shapes into unusual, twisted silhouettes, each season the show presents us with new ideas on how to wear everyday items in our wardrobes. Take, for example, when the designer collaborated with UGG and created extreme thigh-high boots in 2018. It may have been two years ago, but it’s still a moment that goes down in fashion history.
For Y/Project’s fall 2020 collection, the designer delved into some of the same concepts of reinventing classic wardrobe staples with new, twisted ways to wear them. According to the brand’s show notes, “Glenn Martens unveils this season a more sophisticated Y/Project woman while still remaining true to the twisted aesthetic.”
One of the most standout pieces on the runway was a pair of cut-out trousers with a G-string integrated inside. It’s exactly the kind of piece we could see Bella Hadid or Rihanna, noted fans of the brand, wearing. Elsewhere, Martens took pieces such as the collars from button-down shirts and entire button-down shirts, layering them over pieces such simple dresses. Some of the button-down shirts were attached to dresses over the shoulder, as if they were gently thrown deliberately like one might see someone do in real life. Other collared shirts were sewn underneath complicated bustier and bondage tops. Even blazers were transformed with multiple layers of feminine yet edgy tulle.
Beyond that, sweater dresses were styled with multiple layers at the collar. Jeans were cut low in the center, arching into a low V shape to create an entirely new silhouette. Three-dimensional forms were added at the hip area for emphasis on the female form. “The new silhouette sculpted by high waisted pants with a sharp V cut at the front is taken further and applied to a variation of pieces, adding charisma and sexiness to the classics of feminine elegance,” read the show notes.
One thing that also caught our attention was the small, rounded bags that sat on the wrists of the models, oftentimes matching the fabric of the coordinating look. At first glance, they looked almost exactly like the kind of everyday scrunchie (!!) you probably wear around your wrist. In matching fabrics, they also looked a bit like an extension of the clothing.
Overall, Y/Project’s fall 2020 collection looked as if they took cues from the way people dress in real life — whether throwing a jacket or lightweight shirt over the shoulder or wearing a scrunchie on the wrist — with a dramatic twist.
Martens took inspiration from the Belle Époque and Edwardian aesthetics for the collection. If there’s one thing we know Y/Project for, it’s the innovative silhouetted and proposed new ways of dressing. That being said, the fall 2020 collection presented almost an entirely, brand-new feeling way of dressing.
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